Wednesday, January 30, 2008

Evora, Arraiolos & Montemor-o-Novo


Evora


We drove up to 130 km from Lisbon to get to Evora, capital of the Alentejo region. I expected a lot from this city (listed as one of UNESCO’s World Heritage) but didn’t get to see much, apart from the “exterior” monuments - the Loios Church, the Cathedral, Giraldo Square - center of the city....and most important, the Roman temple of Evora (improperly called Diana Temple), built in Corinthian style– a 1st century temple dedicated probably to the Cult of Emperor Augustus. The court of the first and second dynasties resided here for long periods, constructing palaces, monuments and religious buildings and Evora became the scene for many royal weddings and, as they say, a place where many important decisions were made. The city is a little bit expensive, the food seems to be nice (though I didn't get to taste much of it) and the region is extremely quiet and beautiful – we saw different breeds of cows, sheep, horses and even rabbits :-)













Arraiolos


Any Portuguese knows Arraiolos, famous for its hand-made carpets, with a special technique (and no, I don´t have any picture with the carpets but you can find them on Google, of course). What we found in Arraiolos was a town square where all the old men (and not women!!) of Arraiolos gathered together, I guess talking about everything and nothing, watching the passer-by and enjoying the Sun. I didn't buy and carpet :-) even though I like them a lot, but took a lot of interesting pictures with the above mentioned old men. What I also found out was that Óbidos is not the only place in Portugal where houses have a blue trim at the base of the construction, but Arraiolos have them too, they are supposed to ward off the devil-hmmm....should we all paint our houses like this? The problem was that some of them had this line painted in gray and also yellow...what does that mean???

What I found out was that.... the technique used to make Arraiolos carpets is a "form of embroidery with counted dots". The stitches of the Arraiolos carpets are embroidered trough the network of a jute mesh in order to cover the whole surface of a piece cut to the wanted dimensions. Historically the carpets from Arraiolos have gone through at least three periods of evolution-the earliest still in existence date from the XVII century (they have simple motif reproductions from oriental rugs and the shades of red are the dominant colours). The second period occurs later in the XVII century where the oriental designs are mixed with a variety of stylised animal designs such as pigeons, peacocks and mammals. The dominant colours are red, yellow, blue and green. Some of the designs show clearly influences of the Spanish Levant, France (“Lis Fleur”) and Germany (The Eagle). The third period occurs in the beginning of the second decade of the XVIII century, here the oriental designs disappear and are substituted by complex floral motifs and traditional dolls. The dominant colours become blue, yellow and green. In the end of the XVIII century begins a period of decline. Instead of remaining faithful to the complexity and diversity of the motifs of the previous periods, there was a simplification of the floral style, mostly placed in a light or dark blue field, or geometric figures copies of tile designs.








Montemor-o-Novo

...and the last place we got to visit was a very pleasant surprise for us-Montemor-o-Novo was a nice "accident" in our trip-we wanted to see something interesting, but not that far away. We chose Montemor-o-Novo, by chance, where we picked up a lot of oranges (hmmm this should be a top secret though, sorry :-)), we got to see the ruins of a deserted castle, walked through a serene "park" and invaded the private property of a local, attracted by the beautiful orange trees (no, we didn't cause any conflict, don't worry, as Portuguese are really nice and we are innocent :-)).






Wednesday, January 23, 2008

Convento dos Capuchos & Azenhas do Mar - 20 Jan 2008

Azenhas do Mar - my second time in the same place, the old fishermen's sofa was not as "beautiful" as the last time (look at my posting from the 30th of July 2007), the waves were absolutely crazy, and I was trying not to recall the wind that last time almost made us fly over the rocks.








Convento dos Capuchos
- or the Capucin Convent is a mystic, humble, quiet, green and fairy-tale like place, next to Sintra. I had to drive a long way on winding roads until we found this wonderful deserted place. Convento dos Capucho (originally known as Convento da Santa Cruz) was built in 1560 by Alvaro de Castro, son of the vice-roy of India, Joao de Castro. The legend says that the nobleman was lost in the mountains (Serra da Sintra) during a chase for a deer and fell asleep under a rock. During his sleep, he dreamt that there should be built a Christian temple....which he did afterwards, of course :-)








Sunday, January 13, 2008

Sunday in Caldas da Rainha, Óbidos and Foz do Arelho



Caldas da Rainha is famous for its locally-made ceramics and thermal cures. The town has a free hospital, founded by Queen Leonor - the hospital subsequently became a popular spa, reaching its peak in the late 19th century. Caldas da Rainha became also home to a great number of refugees who fled to neutral Portugal from all over Europe. I bought some nice ceramic pots and vases :-) - they are pretty cheap and nice, so I would recommend the place at least for this. Luckily, we went there on a sunny Sunday morning-the reflections of the famous hospital in the water of the lake are extremely beautiful.






Is was my second time in Óbidos, a very quiet and lovely medieval town, with a poetic and romantic "attitude" and narrow cobblestone streets lined with whitewashed houses. Óbidos was the wedding present of a queen, and you can see its preserved delicacy. Don´t miss the ginginha de Óbidos served in chocolate cups. Lovely :-))










Not in a "cronological order", Foz do Arelho was our middle way place to visit. We got there accidently, as I had a list of beautiful places worth to be visited, but I didn't know which one to choose. As lucky as I am, I witnessed one of the most beautiful waves "performance", with a touch of Sun, wanting to go to "sleep". Sometimes I really believe that these moments are made for me :-))




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